Paris Fashion Week SS 11 by day . . .

Paris in the day consists of shows (usually in a cool dark room) and strolling around, the days were not too hectic for me and consisted of hanging at Doors Studio with Boyy and Jesse where they were showing the Boyy SS 11 collection . . .and gong to the odd show and strolling and catching up with friends (who are in fashion). As far as I am concerned, as they are concerned, a big part of fashion is the fashion world and the fashion world convergs on Paris a few times a year, to "catch up" with one's fashion family (to that is Susan Bender, Daniella, Corto, Popo and Alex) and in some cases brainstorm as to what to do next and really have a blast. . .

We could learn a few things or two with the upcoming Bkk Fashion Expo here in Thailand - like the network exists, the world is there, if we want to be in it, a good start is to visit that world and assimilate as opposed to try to create a parallel one that is out of context . . . Fashion shows to me is about relevance and context and ultimately vision, to regurgitate and to create a derivative is useless and ultimately is rendered obselete. What I saw this season was a yearning by fashion to be relevant and to inspire without being too complicated, what I did see did confirm that there is an effort to touch and feel and be. Reading Suzy Menkes' on point reviews also confirms that fashion is struggling and tuning itself to the 21st century, it is adjsuting and really, I hope this is the dawn of a new era (Galliano's Dior considered wearable and a quick sell is something rather new - like it or not).

What has changed since the last time I was at the collections is the army of "photographers" and bloggers in front of a show, it takes a good ten minutes to make it to the etnrance.

Dior

Alex's back drop to cheeky Betty Page girls in playful dresses and trenches. Not rocket science by any means and hardly challenging but a definite nod to disposable fashion and that girls do want to have fun and testiment that yes, the king of decadence can be commercial but keep a charm and sensibility which is his. Vibrant colour palette, mega wearable, if the ipad had a cart button linked to the show, Dior would have been very happy. The fact that the collection to some might be somewhat "low brow" and silly maybe goes to show that they might take all of this a bit too seriously? I mean, come on, the girls were hot, the dresses were cute and Aloha to that . .

Viktor and Rolf was good fun - Burea Betak set up . . . great shoulders, cute shirts . . .

Boyy

Then John Galliano - a visual feat . . . in the Opera comique . . . absolutely stunning to me she is the ultimate muse, down trodden but still devoted to inspiring, her mix of chinoserie with lace, gauze and glitter and sequins, forever fabulous, forever held by the allure of the artist and the opera . ..

Judging from the press that has been around the last couple days - all must hail the master Karl and of course Monsieur Alber . . .comme toujours . . . and of course . . Givenchy . . .

Then there are the little day time cocktails and press events .. . .I only went to Marc Jacobs by Hugo Scott's invitation, met the CEP Robert Duffy who is especiallly charming, uber intelligent and totally toally got his thing down. Rather inspiring.

Me, Hugo and Susan

Then of course, Corto . . .

and all roads do lead back to either the Cafe Castiglione, Cafe Ruc or Colette .. .oui, c'est la vie during fashion week.

Follow Me to the Stars - Disaya A/W 09

Last week was Bangkok Elle Fashion Week which unlike the shows in New York, London,Paris and Milan which are a season ahead, this was more of a showcase for Thai designers and a lovely social affair.

The highlight for me without any doubt was Disaya, her show called Celestial Goddess . . . inspired by the stars and the galaxy.  

The mood was definitely sombre, a stark contrast to last season's happy smiley faces yet the cheeky elegance and subtle sophistication of the Disaya girl remained - this time as a princess of the stars.  

It was smokey in its palette, the dull matte tones highlighted with diamante, rivets, embroidery and in some parts the most intricate crochet work, cut out flowers and the silver chain belts reminiscent of Princess Leia and at the same time a Siamese lady warrior from the past.  The darkness was sometimes highlighted with the odd fuschia. 

 A focus on tailoring and also on draping. . . More about what you can't see.  I liked the navy with black, and grey with brown, navy and more sparkle. 

I adored the Follow Me star print (seen above as a blur) - and how she manipulated the printed chiffon, a murky blue with off white stars and the zodiac.  The very high gladiators made the girls more fierce, I personally would not always pair them together but it completes that statement which she would like to speak and it is one of strength and the search for a new frontier.

I want to buy this dress, long black satin silk piece with just enough sheer , just enough pearls spoke very clearly about where this girl is going and where she has been.  

 

And of course the white crochet that sparkles the way the stars do. 

Disaya (Aom)is unique as a designer, her designs are as subtle as she is and just as cheeky yet at the same time extremely elegant and its complex. She does speak a language where less is more, the clever structures and simple lines allowing for clever detail and a certain strong feminine touch and a story to be conveyed.  Here we were taken along with her to her childhood obsession with the stars and the galaxy in a coherent, together collection and as much as I love yellow smiley faces, I do prefer the stars and shall definitely be following her to the store very soon.

Note the woman putting her hand up on teh other side - at Elle Fashion Week - photos are STRICTLY forbidden, for what reasons I am not sure as with the lights that shine on teh runway and at first row - flash is unnecsary anyway.  These are moonshine, smuggled pictures so do excuse the quality . . .I hope you do get an idea though.

Redefinition of the Drape - Paris SS '10

Alber Albaz, he who revived the house of Lanvin, started a new look that is really truly his and redefined the drape and the idea of shape, redefined the use of fabric and he does it once again.  Yes, he uses Polyester, yes the dresses are as desirable as any silk chiffon number.  

No, at first glance, a minimalist he is not but in terms of the form, the simple yet complex way that he drapes, the composition, the balance - there is something new and rather complex here - it is beautiful and challenging. Take away the necklaces and styling the dresses and jumpsuits are so pure and effortless.  

I can't help but think of draping of sarongs once again or the sabai over a blouse in Thailand from pictures of the past.

It is this willingness of designers to explore and to move away from the traditional yet weave in references of the old.  There are immense techonolgoical developments in textiles and Mr. Albaz has always used this to his benefit.  The essence is in the detail yet if one looks at the shapes, there is a purity, a sancitity which is from the way the fabric itself behaves.  It's like the laws of gravity, Mr. albaz has time and time again manipulated this law and this time has given us something new - different indeed.  Wish I was there.

Minimalism that Takes My Breath Away - Paris SS '10

There is a return to minimalism - a simplicity that is utilitarian in parts but at the same time so rich in detail that is so superbly executed that there is subtlety and beauty that defines the pieces. 

I am a minimalist at heart, as I am reduced to a ball of emotions in front of a Barnett Newman,a Flavin light or in a Turrell space thus straight lines and purity speak to me but there is something about richness of colour and contrast and layers that also intrigues me, the unexpected, the surprise - kind of like a Bacon painting . .. 

Leaving aside the art references, my favourites so far from the Paris shows spell out pretty clearly why there still needs to be high fashion - albeit, a ready to wear.  Who would set the standards otherwise?  

Givenchy - another level - elegant, so sexy and just fierce - no compromising at all here - there is a dark undertone but the way that it is draped, and put together I love the way Ricardo Tisci redefines Givenchy.

And of course, there is Junya Watanabe . . . menswear for women - to the perfect minute detail, a touch of humour and completely singular in his vision. 

Hussein Chalayan - usually pretty far out there but this time, a stream lined, neat, elegant and yet very cool - challenging enough - its lines simple, its form evoking another time, glamour of the 50's yet done in the most modern method. . .

If a recession causes a renaissance like this where you can see teh struggle and triumphs with material as well as the thought that has gone into creating something orignal yet functional and oh so wearable then maybe it was long time coming . . . 

Though shock horror breaking news is that the king of minimalism and one of the first of the avant garde belgiums, Martin Margiela - is not longer at the house of his own name . . .this collection then will be highly anticipated . . .can't wait.