Tuesday 6 October 2009

Minimalism that Takes My Breath Away - Paris SS '10

There is a return to minimalism - a simplicity that is utilitarian in parts but at the same time so rich in detail that is so superbly executed that there is subtlety and beauty that defines the pieces. 

I am a minimalist at heart, as I am reduced to a ball of emotions in front of a Barnett Newman,a Flavin light or in a Turrell space thus straight lines and purity speak to me but there is something about richness of colour and contrast and layers that also intrigues me, the unexpected, the surprise - kind of like a Bacon painting . .. 

Leaving aside the art references, my favourites so far from the Paris shows spell out pretty clearly why there still needs to be high fashion - albeit, a ready to wear.  Who would set the standards otherwise?  

Givenchy - another level - elegant, so sexy and just fierce - no compromising at all here - there is a dark undertone but the way that it is draped, and put together I love the way Ricardo Tisci redefines Givenchy.



And of course, there is Junya Watanabe . . . menswear for women - to the perfect minute detail, a touch of humour and completely singular in his vision. 


Hussein Chalayan - usually pretty far out there but this time, a stream lined, neat, elegant and yet very cool - challenging enough - its lines simple, its form evoking another time, glamour of the 50's yet done in the most modern method. . .


If a recession causes a renaissance like this where you can see teh struggle and triumphs with material as well as the thought that has gone into creating something orignal yet functional and oh so wearable then maybe it was long time coming . . . 

Though shock horror breaking news is that the king of minimalism and one of the first of the avant garde belgiums, Martin Margiela - is not longer at the house of his own name . . .this collection then will be highly anticipated . . .can't wait.

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