Bkk Eats - Thai - Silom/Sathorn

At some point in time, writing down my favourite restaurants and recommending the same dishes to visiting friends on little scraps of paper (with my illegible handwriting), searching through old emails for my Bkk Must Eat list gets a little tiresome. I figure I might as well put it all in one place, with the phone number and addresses and my fave to-die-for dishes and hope that I can just say - "darling,if you are in Bkk and need some resto tips, have a look at Bkk Eats and you can find where I actually go to eat and drink" Maybe I will add to this with drinking holes, shops and galleries but for now - let's start with Bkk and food . . . :)

There are some restaurants here that are not to be missed. Full Stop.

Bkk Eats my faves (not in any particular order of preference - although I did post my top five about a year ago) listed by area as Bkk traffic can be such a pain, it is good to know at least where you are going, type of food as everything is available here and in a way what you will be eating dictates the kind of look and feel of the resto, this is especially so with Thai food. Also whether they are open fo rlunch or dinner. I'm starting with Silom/Sathorn - close to the The Oriental and the grand river hotles as well as The Sukhothai and The Metropolitan. The area is kind of the spine and connects new Bkk with Thonburi as well as old bkk, is the commercial district as well as business district also

Taling Pling

A two story garden house on the same soi as the Indian Temple on Pan road which connects Sathorn and Silom. Colourfully decorated, feels rather bijoux with little wooden tables, nothing too fancy, air con is super cold. Been around for ages, is always full, lunch and dinner and has the most fantastic food, booking recommended as it is always full. The menu is HUGE, little pics for you to look at too. Luckily the portions are small so you can try loooads of things, I have gone when famished and end up over ordering - thank goodness for doggy bags! Save room for dessert.

My faves:

Mieng Taling Pling - old school Thai hors d'oeuvre of betel leaf with shalots, garlic, ginger chilli, dried shrimp, there is a special coconut paste which is different from other places. Delicious and a must-try especially to master the art of creating a betel leaf cup.

Yum Taling Pling - a Thai salad of crispy fish with lemongrass with lime, chili dressing. Very fresh.

Yum Dok krajon with shrimp - flower salad with shrimp - always love to eat flowers, just the idea. This flower is supposed to be good for the eyes.

Kuaytiow Bok - a bastardished jumbo version of the Vietnamese fresh spring roll - rocks.

Deep fried garlic, chilli and pepper squid - to-die-for

Beef green curry with roti - beef is braised and tender and the curry rich and aromatic, served with fried roti.

Gaeng ped ped yang - Red curry with roast duck - the way it should be made. Sweet and rich.

Yod mara pad cha - marrow shoot stir fried with chilli - lovely texture and smell.

Deepfried pomfret with fish sauch - aamazing. Or go for the steamed sea bass with chilli and lime.

Kai jieow kab moo - heart attack city with thai omelet and pork crackling but so good, served here with chilli, lime and shallots, perhaps to cut the fat.

Dessert:

Mango Sticky Rice - esp if mango is in season

Tub tim grob - water chestnut wrapped in pink fragrant sweet jelly in syrup and young coconut ice ans shavings.

Flourless chocolate - yes, not only have the mastered the thai food but the pastry chef is not one to mess with

Open: Daily for lunch through to dinner. Last order 10:30 if you sit around and chill, they will stay open but don't be surprised if they close everything around you and leave you in the dark!

Address: 60 Thanon Pan

Phone number:02 236 4830

N.B. Avoid the other branches in town, they are a poor shade of what the original Pan Road branch is best. If you are there in the day time, stroll down the road and check out Kathmandu gallery or have a chai tea in one of the little Indian tea shops.

Le Lys

Lovely garden restaurant owned by a Thai lady and her French hubby, been around for ages though has moved to this location since a couple years ago. Cozy terrace and a patanque area - nice selection of french wine and to accompany what feels and tastes like home cooked Thai food. What is great is you can choose level of Thainess and they serve brown rice! Le Lys serve some very local southern dishes that you don't get in central bkk, very strong and pungent flavours here.

I only book when we are a big group - super fun place when there is a big group

My faves:

Mieng kap moo - Betel leaf hor d'oeuvre with pork crackling. Or try the tuna version with Kale

Larb woonsen - vermicelli larb chhose from chicken, seafood, port - Thai salad which is unique for its roasted rice, mint and chilli mix

Jungle curry - pungent, rich but without coconut. A local and strong flavour, worth trying

Gaeng Lieng - a very fragrant herbal soup

Duck Krapow - duck fillet with crispy basil thai style

Tamarind prawns - delicious

Open daily for lunch and dinner

Address: 148/11 Nang Linchi Soi 6

Outdoor terrace - lots of mozzies but they have spray and anti mozzy stuff.

Phone number: 02 287 1898

website

Baan Klang Nam

Rather large seafood restaurant in a compound of connecting wooden houses on the river with a view of the port. Busy and outdoors, lots of Thai families, big tables, oddly serves sushi as well. Huge menu, nothing fancy at all, you go there for the seafood and the hustle and bustle - it is delicious. They also have funny cocktails, makes it a bit kitsch, mai tais etc.

My faves:

fresh oysters - served Thai style - deep fried shallots and pak krajed and thai spicy seafood dip. The pak krajed causes the oysters to turn sweet, some chemical reaction happens and it's like sucking on sugar - bizarre and at the same time, delicious

pad thai without noodles - fresh juicy shrimps with all the ingredients of phad thai without the noodles.

steamed seabass with lime, chilli and garlic (pla krapong nueng manao) - I love this dish here.

bbq tiger prawns - to die for, esp with thai seafood dip

steamed mussels with herbs - delicious

The menu is totally humongous . . . anything goes really. I remember I used to order california rolls here too, why I am not so sure.

Open daily for lunch and dinner (I like it for dinner)

Address: Rama 3 soi 14 (this is the original, they have another branch which is Baan Klang Nam 2 - never been there)

Phone number: 02 292 0175

A gastronomic theatre through the backdoor . . .

Alain Ducasse's gastronomic kitchen which seen from where we were sat at his 3-star Michelin restaurant at the Plaza Athenee was like watching a theatre performance. 7 courses of delight smack in the middle of all the action. I remember thinking I wish I had not eaten that huge piece of pork at the Maison Baccarat earlier as what awaited us by the Chef was an epicurian adventure which included cockscombe among many other things.

From our room we descended up the bar for Grey Goose martinis then onto Ducasse. . . via the backdoor . . .

down the stairs . . .

to witness this . . . .

and to sit, just Lynn and I with the unwavering attention of sommeliers, a maitre de and waiters who took care of us under the watchful eye of the Chef (he's the guy without the big white hat).

the beginning

cockscombe

curtains down

the end

and back to the surface of the restaurant with our goody bags and customised menus . . . what bliss it was to climb up the stairs to bed . . . stuffed little gourmand piggies. Thank you Chef.

A sailboat and the Man in the Iron Mask

We went sailing courtesy of Grey Goose, on a divine 20 foot sailboat with Francois, Eric and Marie Rose . . .it was wonderful . . .

I particularly liked the deck . . . and the bleached wood.

And there is no denying, we do love the French Riviera . . . I would say 30 oysters chucked for just us and Petrossian caviar and blinis was a nice touch. Grey Goose layed the luxury on pretty thick . . .we loved that the caviar came in little hoops that said "eggciting". Sailing around St. Tropez would have been nice but we would not have gotten to see the prison where the man in the iron mask of history and legend, who to Alexandre Dumas was King Louis XIV's twin brother, was held . . .

We sailed into the sunset, I do like the pace of life on the water and the fact that one can really breath.

I wonder what it would take to have sticky rice, somtum and chicken from soi polo transported to us . . . apparently they have a motorcycle delivery service, I wonder if that extends to the Med, now that really would be rather something, Petrossian x Jae Gee, someone should try that sometime.

The thing with being on this amazing boat and just rolling along on the water is it awakens you to the simplicities in life (or at least it did to me), that it really can just be so simple and it is freedom that is perhaps the biggest luxury of all. If only I did not forget my bikini and I could have jumped into the water as the sun was beginning to sleep.

The other Tokyo . . .

outside the realms of TPAM and Connected is yet another world . . .I have some friends in Tokyo that I caught up with and some new friends that I made . . .this is the Tokyo beyond the isolated world of performance.  It really was an eye opener . . .  the techniques that are used in performance to engage the audience, I suppose theatre did come before TV after all.  Some things are about the small intimate experience, so much so that one needs to touch and feel it, no matter what exposure facebook or a blog can give you maybe in the end it is about actually BEING there.  I fell in love again with Tokyo this time because I got to touch and feel it . . . and this is when one realises that it is what you do as well as well as you who you meet whilst doing it that makes the difference . .The journey and those mysterious encounters.

Okonomo Yaki . . .a new discovery with Takeshi, Yukie and Takehiro

The Stoke Newington boys . . . after their morning at Tsukiji . . .then on the train . . .(Gregor and I did not go to the market)

Literally lost in translation on the JR

Home Alone (an exhibition in Daikanayama)

Ped and Tommy at Dita store

A secret wine theatre with Yuki

Surfing in Chigasaki

rocking the wet seal look - Takeshi, Tommy and I (with my amaaazing Malia Jones Typhoon board which Takeshi has kept for me)

amazing organic buffet after surfing

Hello Kitty, Yuki and I (Yuki was not even supposed to be in Japan so it was a wonderful surprise and amazing to catch up, and she totally spoilt me as well - thanks Yuki for Donkey, Tatami, sashimi and funny tokyo moments)

Bye bye Tokyo

On the Narita Express Limousine I overheard some kids talk about the Vanity Fair Oscars party a skating and surfing trip and a big tour . . .I figured the kid must be some pro skater/snowboarder or soemting.  So out of interest, I asked Yuki via bbim if she had ever heard of or seen a shaggy redhead who sounded very charming and funny who was a pro skater or skier. . .well, her bf who is a skater said that it must be Shaun White.  Well, you see , I've not heard of Shaun White, nor has Yuki, and it turned out to be Shaun White . . . a prodigy and well, 2 time olympic snowboard champion and amazing pro-skater. There goes my street cred for admitting that - he was nice, funny and his publicist, very lovely.  There you go, one of those chance encounters . . . that may or may not become something . . . how cool would it be if finally him and all these people I met came to Bkk, even if it was just for a moment so we can see, touch, feel and get to kow all these things that we read out and hear about . . . That is the other Tokyo for me. Must bring it home . . .back to bkk. Thank you Tokyo. 

Piggy Tokyo

I had the pleasure of spending all of last week in Tokyo - a city which no matter how many times I have been I do not fail but feel like Scarlett Johansson in Lost in Translation, that might be a cliche by now but it is true.  The little quirks, the contrasts, the obsessiveness that makes it Tokyo - oh how I love it. 

I was a delagate of the British Council, representing MCOT, for the Tokyo Performance Arts Market and The UK's Connected showcase.  It was brilliant albeit exhausting. I really opened my eyes but more on that later . . . It is overwhelming the sites and sounds . . .especially when one is watching 3-4 performances a day . . .more on that later.

First thing was first though . . .food, and well, the Isetan food market is reason enough to relocate to Tokyo . .I thought this was genius . . .loove.

Cheesy Piggy

Also, Maisen . . .always my first stop, an institution of a Tonkatsu place, enough so to have its own road . . .and of course, I should bump into my co-patriots from Thailand, a dozen of them, making  a little stop in Tokyo after skiing. . . .

Maisen

a Farmer's market below Chanel

pop-up Kitsune at Montoak

That is only day one.

Hyde and Seek . . . .

Hide and seek is a game about a search and the winner is the one who seeks and hopefully finds a gem. . . this is the case of this very bijoux little gastro pub, called Hyde and SEek in Bkk.  Hyde for the fact that is behind Bkk's version of Hyde Park and Seek for all the nooks and crannies, a the playful twist of dining, and it is a pub after all.

Without doubt the best drinks in town are brought by Flow and pub grub by Ian Chalermkittichai of Kittichai NY. The cozy interior fits around 40 and is conceptualised by BUG and the large terrace decked out by Bill Bensley.  It is particularly jovial around the bar where the bartenders wear bibs inspired by mechanics' overalls in old movie, the waitresses wear belted oversized shirt dresses and the boys, tapered trousers and hidden houndstooth trimmed shirts, all designed by yours truly (a little past time that I engage in since a few years back when I did Ian's restaurant in NY, Kittichai, Nobu Berkeley in London and a few others).

  

It is dark with a childlike charm to it - it reminds me of Laduree mixed Pastis with a touch of The Cow . . Dad said defo a posh pub and not the type he used to visit in his uni days in England.  

Other than for my own vanity - watching the staff is like watching my own mini fashion show... (though I am still tweaking bits) I would not frequent a spot so much that the waitress says "I have not seen you in ages" after 3 days if it was not rather nice. It's a clandestine little haunt me and my friends . There is a special drink there, created by Chanond, it's called the double black.... It fuels the night and in the last month I have enjoyed some of the best most entertaining moments... 

And the food? First time I went was for a tasting more than a month ago....  and now with the temporary menu done to perfection and the full monty being launched shortly... suffice to say, I have a few favourites.  These are the wagyu beef burger, the poached salmon, the english salad and to die for and must try pannacotta.

Pow and Wagyu burger

Paulie said we kept it in the fam (smirnoff black complete with faberge egg at the bar)... I suppose we did in a way...  The closest thing to a mom and pops in downtown bkk .... A thai english dandy, suave swedes, a celebrity thai chef from ny, BUG and me... A raggidy mix probably rather suitable for a little pub. 

Hyde and Seek is located at the Plaza Atheneee Residence on closer to the Ruamrudee side. . .see you there. :)

Pork sticks

The best pork sticks in the entire universe, P'Ouan (or P'Chubby) has been on this corner since I can remember.  Juicy bbq pork sticks with or without chilli dip and sticky rice.

"pork sticks - 10 baht a stick"

We suspect he has a few Mercedes' at home as there is always a queue and it has been many years that he has been on this corner at Soi Convent across from Silom Soi 4 (apparently it is his second stop of the evening) there is now a HUGE 7-11 on that corner - HUGE. . .  P'Chubby's cars and house is speculation but it's basically to say his pork sticks are so delicious and he is so hard working that he must have made some $$$ from it some how - seeing as things are equated with monetary value these days.  Pork stick dreams and bkk.

Chote Chitr Revisited

The ninety year old institution called Chote Chitr is truly worth the trek across town on Friday. Michelle was visiting me from Singapore and I decided that she really did need to see old Bangkok in its full glory and that meant lunch at Chote Chitr . . .

Michelle at Chote Chitr

The menu is vast but what the restaurant is famous for are old Thai dishes such as Mee Krob and Banana Blossom salad - absolutely divine. We also adored the Fish Tum Yum with miso.

mee krob

banana blossom salad

Can you imagine that little kitchen has been there for generations and in that little kitchen the chef is able to create a massive and delicious menu with the freshest ingredients and most well-rounded taste? There are only about 5 tables in there so you usually do have to wait but there is something rather satisfying about waiting for a meal you know will be divine.

inside

she's the boss

We worked out that it would take months and months of coming for lunch to sample everything on the menu - I suppose if it's been there for 90 years, it is not going anywhere soon. I am always so happy every time I leave Chote Chitr - walking through the little soi and seeing Gor Panich the famous mango and sticky rice shop across the street. This was only the start of our old Bangkok afternoon . . .