Island Love

The final installment of the beginning of a new Act in a beautiful love story, the marriage of Waan and Eric. This time on the beach, at the Amanpuri.

A day of fun in the sun, Lynn then stressing over her speech for Waan as the best man P'Kamthon had since September to prepare his speech, and Lynn, since our arrival in Phuket, that morning.

Pasri and Nagara

The Amanpuri is still the epitomy of elegance, Ed Tuttle's design is timeless. The wedding started by Cocktails on the private deck . . . familiar faces, as P'Puoi puts it, deja vu to Bali perhaps, we then descended upon the beach.

Me (in homemade "Chomwan"), P'Opas, Waan (in gorgeous vintage Halston)

The way that Freddy, the manager, and his beautiful wife Lisa set up the "tent" and the entire evening, art directed by the ravishing Pasri Bunnag (Eric's mum) was spectacular. Subtle yet perfectly done. One is greeted by a sea of soft light, hundreds of candles on the beach then strands of orchids blowing in the wind, attached of to a frame but it was dark so it looked like strands of fresh orchids softly lit in orange swaying in the wind and floating in darkness.

Harry and I

The speeches were brilliant. . . Lynn's sweet and touching as the bride's friend and P Kam's speech as best man, witty and very funny. My favourite line was, "Men are like floor tiles, if you lay them right the first time around, you can walk all over them". Whether or not that is true, you tell me. . .

Lynn and Waan post-speech

P'Kamthon

Waan

Pasri and Bill Booth

Khun Yai Pasri and P'Puoi

Fireworks went off in the distance as the speeches finished, almost as if they were planned especially for Eric and Waan. It is bizarre that this occasionally happens and so timely.

Me and Pasri

The crew of Mahapetra with the bride and groom

Drinks and dancing under stars on the beach, gossiping with the parents listening to them recount old stories until they ushered us upstairs for more celebrations.

Pasri and Jean Michel walking away to sleep

The "procession" where we lined up to toss flowers to the bride and groom was so sweet and the throwing of the bouquet.

Then as the party moved elsewhere on the property, we went to send off the bride and groom to the dingy to get on the MahaPetra, Khun Yai Pasri's and Jean Michel's wooden boat where the couple would sail into the sunrise. It felt very Armani/Calvin Klein to me, champagne, linen shorts and long flowing dresses, straight out of a Peter Lindeburg shoot, romantic and gorgeous. Old fashioned romance.

Next day recovery, I had to have the customary club sandwich (as I do when I stay at a hotel), there is no disputing that the food at the Aman rocks (the wedding banquet testament to this), especially with their healthy touch. The Club was off the menu, very good, very fresh and manages to be elegant of sorts though it's really the gazpacho that rocks my world.

black pool

I decided to decamp to Phuket town to stay in one of those little boutique spots that I have so long wanted to experience. It was not a disappointment as I loved the little Casa 104 . . .

Casa 104

A morning breakfeast of more yellow curry (after the night before's feast at raya) then onwards to the sea once more, this time to Yao Noi.

Me and Corto sombrero (last images as hat is gone - sobs)

A little taste of island love . . .Phuket island love . . .

What memories. I think this is what people mean when they say memories are made of these. . . LOVE.

Golden Tiger/Hidden Monkey

I found myself on Monday night, once more at the Jim Thompson House for the opening of Golden Tiger/Hidden Monkey.  The show was described on the invitation as "astrology * art * life * dialogue with Jim Thompson Art Collection".  It was a big affair, not surprising as it is a group show made up of artists with a rather strong following.  In this case, Roj Singhakul of Issue and Pattree Bhakdibutr of Erb . . .along with Kamol Phaosavasdi, Wisut Pooonimit, and Bhubawit Kritpholnara.  The show touches all senses and definitely spoke to astrology, life and art. .  . not a surprise when the Jim Thompson collection includes classical drawings of the 12 animal signs from the early Rattanakosin period (early 19th century).  Well preserved and beautiful, a strong part the show and a good reference point.  

antique drawing of the Rooster

The artists were commissioned to interpret astrology, which if one thinks about it widely - is about life - especially as each sign defines a certain personage and fate.  Patree created a scent for each sign. E.g. Piyatat is a Dragon, his scent was woodier, more wholesome, it was ginger.  I am a Rooster and the scent which defines me is mint with lavender, lighter, more fleeting.  Now, an Erb x Jim Thompson collection of scents for each sign could be so cool . . .

Piyatat

There is even a forest installation that glows with the sounds of the jungle and animals resonating in the darkness, must come back for an astrology reading.

And the models, preserved in a glass box, each look representing a sign, P'Roj referencing again literally his concept/brief, but wow, was it a stunner and oh so effective.  

installation

Even wearable in parts, if one thinks about how the silk was draped, or the very cool patterned leggings.  

fabric (dog)

rooster

alive rooster

Let's hope that we get to see a Roj x Jim Thompson silk collection in the near future. . .I would love a set of silk square pillow cases, one for each sign or a light silk sarong of the roosters stars, and its celestial companions the snake, dragon and horse.  The models then walked around the projection and then it was all about the projection itself.  The cartoons were super-cute, so innocent yet secretly complex . . .I liked the race, esp the little girl who starts the race (this piece tells you the story of how the signs put in order and which signs are compatible/incompatible) and the third piece, with the dancing.  Music was played live by the artist himself on a keyboard - genius.  Loved it.

rat at finish line first

Cleo and Nat

As always, it being P'Eric's venue, it was nice to catch up with friends and enjoy the most delicious Thai food.  This time I walked away with a little book that interprets the stars and gives feng shui advice for the year of the golden tiger and hidden monkey which starts on the 4th February 2010.  

Golden Tiger/Hidden Monkey 

will at the Jim Thompson House, Bangkok 

until Feb 2010 

Red Demon and Loy Kratong

On the night of the November full moon, or full moon of the 12th month in the Thai calender (12th Night)I went to my first Likay performance at the Jim Thompson house as Eric Booth kindly invited me along to see Red Demon - an adaptation of a Japanese folklore.

The Red Demon

Likay is a traditional Thai form of theatre - a stage play where there is song, dance and prose. . . meant to be humourous but with often an underlying tone of seriousness (moral lesson even) and in this case a comic tragedy very much in the tradition of Shakespeare with the fool telling the tale. . . it was engaging, funny and haunting as it stood as a symbol very much for what is wrong with nations and humans generally . . .it left us with an overwhelming feeling of catharsis, the kind of feeling that Marlowe or the Bard himself would approve of.  Then again Likay in its pure form did originate in the court of King Rama IV and grew into the popular form as we know it today in the court of King Rama V . . .what was interesting is how it took from local themes, local songs and weaved it into the Likay form . . In this case it was influenced by the south of Thailand and the songs of Java (a nod to the problems in the south perhaps?). . .It was wonderful for the senses and the costumes would make Christophe Decarnin proud and the acting was truly brilliant.

As it was 12th night and the night of Loy Kratong where we go to the river and give thanks to the River Goddess by offering her a vessel or kratong of flowers with incense and light . . .it is one of the most beautiful festivals in Thailand.  

bread kratongs (food for fish)

It also evokes a time past where the river was king and not the streets.. . .we went via BTS - like we were on a field trip to Eric's boat . .the Jim Thompson boat which is usually at The Oriental.  It is not large but is truly beautiful, charming especially in detail.

We were fortuitous to be able to catch the display of fireworks from the boat in time . . .perfect view . . .

then cruised up river where the water would be

 still enough for us to float our kratongs . . . 

a decorative barge

P'Harry

There was definitely water traffic and wonderful barges on display.  We finally did find a spot and it should be no other place than in front of the sacred Grand Palace . . .

a floating lantern and the Grand Palace

My little kratong was definitely a fighter . . .then again everyone's was . . . you set it free and leave your worries behind and give thanks to the river for giving us life.  

kratongs, Warn, P'Eric and P'Mai

my kratong and I

Beautiful really . . . a vessel of hope and humility.

Pow and I felt so lucky that night - we expected to go to Red Demon and find some place to float a kratong not knowing that Eric had planned the most magical journey up river . . . again, like the last time I saw a performance at the JT house, it was a most surreal night. Where life imitates art and you are shown that the simple things can be blissful and between the catharsis from a staged comic-tragedy and the hope derived from the river and light . . life is pretty complete when you go with the flow and have a little hope.

Ganesh

Last Monday Bangkokians reported immense traffic in the city centre - this was due to the Indian festival thanking the Gods . . .particularly Ganesh. The weekend before, Eric Booth invited me to see Ganesh by Pichet, the first part being a classical Thai version of the tale with Pichet as the solo performer.  It was enchanting - I now understand why Lord Ganesh is worshipped and why his tusks are broken.  Ganesh is the patron of the arts, he represents artistic endeavours and creativity - very relevant to our times really.  The performance was an hour long and at Pichet's studio which is part of his very charming home. 

on the way to Pichet's

His talent, ability and presence is overwhelming, although a solo performer all the varied emotions required in the play where there are gods, goddesses and mortals are projected from him alone, he has a very wholesome presence and his energy fills the room.  

Pichet

You could feel the pain of his fight and the fear of his loss fromm watching his movement and letting the Thai prose explain.  Very inspiring indeed.  

As I was in Singapore, I was not able to go watch the second re-enactment of the same story but in a modern interpretation.  He is one of the foremost performers in Thai art - unique.  Ganesh would be proud

Suspension of Time and Space

Alexia (a friend from Paris), Gene and I were lucky to bump into Eric Booth (P'Eric) one afternoon after visiting the super duper cool textiles exhibition at the Jim Thompson house/museum.  P'Eric invited us to a performance by Pichet, Thailand's foremost avant-garde performance artists at the Jim Thompson house.  

Alexia and Gene on tuk tuk goin to Jim Thompson

Gene and I - barefoot at the Jim Thompson house

Pichet's performance was dynamic, mysterious but also very clear and simple as he attempted to explain Khon or Thai classical dance . . .it was amazing . . .did not want to blink even . . .

"Theatre is the suspension of time and space" says Pichet, you never see someone die on stage, they die in the back. He showed us how the subtlest movement distinguishes one's role and tells stories and showed us how Thai dance and Thai architecture speak to each other. A lady will never cry in the open, always turning away to weep and the last tear is flicked away to forget.  Real life could learn a few things from theatre . . .

After the eye opening performance dinner was served at the restaurant in the compound.  I had a chance to catch up with P'Harry (who happens to be Gene's cousin) John and Malina. . .and of course the vivacious and sublimely beautiful Pasri Bunnag, Eric's mum and Jean Michel - they own Jim Thompson and are great patrons of the arts - truly inspiring. . . 

It really turned out to be a wonderful evening - like we were taken back into time, to a different Bangkok, the old Thai house and its grounds, the people and conversation . . . so in a way time and space were suspended in real life.